Iris Van Herpen 高清图片画廊轻奢时光 Roots of Rebirth

Roots of Rebirth

Iris van Herpen shows her latest collection ‘Roots of Rebirth’ during Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25th 2021. During such rarefied times, the designer explores a symbiosis of high technology and the artisanal craftsmanship of couture, through a collection that references the intricacy of fungi and the entanglement of life that breathes beneath our feet. Through ‘Roots of Rebirth’, Van Herpen notions towards the miraculous lacery of interconnectedness from the natural ‘wood wide web,’ weaving a dialogue between the terrestrial and the underworld.

Iris van Herpen 在 2021 年 1 月 25 日的巴黎高级时装周期间展示了她的最新系列“重生的根源”。在如此特殊的时期，设计师探索了高科技与高级定制手工工艺的共生关系，通过一个参考真菌的复杂性和在我们脚下呼吸的生命纠缠的集合。通过《重生之根》，范·赫本从自然的“木网”中编织出了连接的奇迹般的花边，编织了陆地和地下世界之间的对话。

The work of Iris van Herpen is often described as ethereal and transcendental; a chimeric exposition, radiating shapes that reference the relationship between the human body and the natural world. This season, the Dutch designer explores the rich, yet deeply fragile interconnectedness of an unfamiliar world, the enigmatic fungi empire and the life-bearing fine threads of mycelium. The collection details the extraordinary existence of this winding ‘fabric of life,’ the marvelling world of undergrowth tapestry. In reference to the book penned by scientist Merlin Sheldrake, ‘Entangled Life’ notes that ‘fungi is the ecological connective tissue, the living seam by which much of the world is stitched into relation.

Iris van Herpen 的作品经常被描述为空灵和超然。一个嵌合的展览，辐射形状参考人体与自然世界之间的关系。本季，这位荷兰设计师探索了一个陌生世界、神秘的真菌帝国和充满生命力的菌丝体之间丰富而脆弱的相互联系。该系列详细介绍了这种蜿蜒曲折的“生命织物”的非凡存在，这是一个令人惊叹的灌木挂毯世界。参考科学家梅林·谢尔德雷克 (Merlin Sheldrake) 所著的这本书，“纠缠的生命”指出，“真菌是生态结缔组织，是将世界大部分地区缝合在一起的活缝。

“Thinking about fungi makes the world look different. These astonishing organisms challenge our animal imaginations and make questions of many of our well-worn concepts, from individuality to intelligence.” - Merlin Sheldrake

“考虑真菌会让世界看起来不同。这些惊人的有机体挑战了我们动物的想象力，并对我们许多陈旧的概念提出了质疑，从个性到智能。” - 梅林·谢德雷克

The interlaced organism has truly shaped our surroundings, despite its often unseen efforts underground, it underpins Earth’s ecosystems. Through the infinite interactions beyond our daily comprehension, these networks embody undiscovered growth and intelligence. It is this ‘ecological connective tissue’ that enhances the circle of life, and its constant exchange of information bares many parallels with urban environments. The primordial appearance of mycelium threads, in constant communication, are microcosmic of our functioning society, from the circulatory system within us; branches of trees; rivers touring through landscapes; to the modern ingenuity of transport or the digital web of the internet.

这种交错的有机体确实塑造了我们的环境，尽管它在地下的努力通常是看不见的，但它支撑着地球的生态系统。通过超出我们日常理解的无限互动，这些网络体现了未被发现的成长和智慧。正是这种“生态结缔组织”增强了生命循环，其不断的信息交流与城市环境有许多相似之处。菌丝线的原始外观，在不断的交流中，是我们社会运作的缩影，从我们体内的循环系统；树枝；河流穿越景观；现代交通的独创性或互联网的数字网络。

‘Roots of Rebirth’ extends its own branch, an invitation to a sequence of 21 looks inspired by roots and spores. During the show, the models seem to magnetise a living lace of spores with each stride, the entanglement of each garment resembles roots of regeneration. Two looks embody the 'henosis' technique, in which multiple translucent layers of duchess fabric were dyed in pastel hues, forming a 'mantodea' motif. An off-white lasercut venation formed by a myriad of hovering fins sprout outwards, radiating each motion into a delicate lacy array of invisible interconnectedness. In other creations, hand-embroidered roots surge and symmetrically entwine the body in transformative tones, from liquid copper to deep shades of burnt umber. Hand-pleated mahogany silk were draped to fan out into hemispheric blooms.

‘Roots of Rebirth’ 扩展了它自己的分支，邀请了 21 种灵感来自根和孢子的外观序列。秀场上，模特的每一步都仿佛磁化了一条活生生的孢子花边，每件衣服的纠缠都像是再生的根。两款造型都体现了“henosis”技术，其中多层半透明的公爵夫人织物被染成柔和的色调，形成“mantodea”图案。由无数悬停的鳍形成的灰白色激光切割脉络向外发芽，将每个动作辐射成精致的花边阵列无形的关联。在其他创作中，手工刺绣的根部涌动并对称地缠绕在身体上，从液态铜到深沉的棕褐色，以变革性的色调。手工打褶的桃花心木丝绸被披散成半球形的花朵。

Iris van Herpen amplifies her kinetic ethos, citing the constant state of metamorphosis in the fungi queendom. Two kinetic crowns were created in collaboration with artist Casey Curran, each gently shape-shifting their silhouette, continuously re-framing the visage. Eighteen transparent monofilament threads snake their way through a series of 18 brass coils, arranged to create a serpentine motion in the lifting and falling of each quill, symbolic of the turbulent motion of our minds, through which we rectify our reality.

Iris van Herpen 放大了她的动力精神，引用了真菌女王世界中不断变化的状态。与艺术家 Casey Curran 合作创造了两个动态牙冠，每个牙冠都轻轻地改变了他们的轮廓，不断地重新塑造了面容。十八根透明的单丝线蜿蜒穿过一系列 18 个黄铜线圈，在每根羽毛笔的升降中产生蛇形运动，象征着我们思想的动荡运动，通过它我们可以纠正我们的现实。

The unseen splendour of each garment echoes fungi activity, in which glass-organza were intricately pleated in an ombré of white to vivid amber, branching out from a hand-embroidered bodice to form fractal networks. A mosaic of fine-edged liquescent gills were 3D embroidered onto expandable lace, lasercut to parametrically reveal fine details of skin between amethyst hued fibre. As fungi maps the skin of the earth, such is also the composition of Van Herpen’s Haute Couture. In another look, upcycled fabric made from marine debris by Parley for the Oceans was printed and incised into thousands of fine trilateral tessellations, initiating a fragile symbiosis with the skin through seamless gradients in translucency.

每件衣服都散发出不为人知的光彩，与真菌活动相呼应，其中玻璃欧根纱错综复杂地折叠成从白色到生动琥珀色的渐变色，从手工刺绣的紧身胸衣延伸出分形网络。精细边缘液化鳃的马赛克被 3D 刺绣到可扩展的蕾丝上，激光切割以参数化显示紫水晶色纤维之间的皮肤细节。正如真菌映射地球的皮肤一样，这也是 Van Herpen 高级时装的组成。从另一个角度来看，由海洋垃圾制成的升级织物 Parley for the Oceans 被印刷并切割成数千个精细的三边镶嵌，通过半透明的无缝渐变与皮肤建立脆弱的共生关系。

The mysteries of the undergrowth influence the composition of our sacred planet so selflessly through shape-shifting silhouettes that bring the promise of a renaissance and regeneration. The collection is a performance dedicated to the importance of our being and the valiance of nature. With the persistence of time, evolution prevails, and while these beings are never truly fixed, they exist merely in a state of flux, a rippling fabric of life itself, dancing to the benevolent beat of rebirth.

灌木丛的奥秘通过改变形状的轮廓无私地影响着我们神圣星球的构成，带来了复兴和再生的希望。该系列是一场致力于表达我们存在的重要性和自然的勇敢的表演。随着时间的推移，进化占了上风，虽然这些生物从来没有真正固定过，但它们只是处于一种不断变化的状态，生命本身的涟漪结构，随着重生的仁慈节拍而起舞。