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Shift Souls

This Iris van Herpen Couture collection was inspired by early examples of celestial cartography and its representations of mythological and astrological chimera, Van Herpen was particularly taken with "Harmonia Macrocosmica," a star atlas by the German-Dutch cartographer Andreas Cellarius, published in 1600.

这个 Iris van Herpen Couture 系列的灵感来自天体制图的早期例子及其神话和占星学嵌合体的表现，Van Herpen 特别采用了“Harmonia Macrocosmica”，这是德荷制图师 Andreas Cellarius 于 1600 年出版的星图集。

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With the advances in DNA engineering and the first successful creations of human/anima hybrids called 'Cybrids', the mythological dreams of Humankind since the dawn of civilization are shifting to the canvas of science. While the scientific and ethical implications of 'Cybrids' are still unclear, this collection expresses the fact that this reality is upon us.

随着 DNA 工程的进步和人类/动物混合体的首次成功创造，称为“Cybrids”，人类自文明诞生以来的神话梦想正在转移到科学画布上。 虽然“Cybrids”的科学和伦理含义尚不清楚，但该系列表达了这样一个事实，即这一现实就在我们身上。

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'For 'Shift Souls' I looked at the evolution of the human shape, its idealization through time and the hybridization of the female forms within mythology. Specially the imagination and the fluidity within identity change in Japanese mythology gave me the inspiration to explore the deeper meaning of identity and how immaterial and mutable it can become within the current coalescence of our digital bodies' — Iris van Herpen

'对于'Shift Souls'，我研究了人类形状的演变、它随时间的理想化以及神话中女性形式的混合。 特别是日本神话中身份变化的想象力和流动性给了我灵感去探索身份的更深层含义，以及它在我们当前数字身体的融合中变得多么无形和易变”——Iris van Herpen

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Additional inspiration comes from the artist Kim Keever, the aquatic expressionist based in New York who merges the disciplines of painting and photography. A former NASA engineer, Keever experiments with the idea of ephemerality and movement in large scale photographs of liquid clouds of colors. Van Herpen collaborated with Keever on translucent layered cloud dresses of his signature work.

其他灵感来自艺术家 Kim Keever，他是纽约的水生表现主义者，融合了绘画和摄影学科。 作为一名前 NASA 工程师，Keever 在大比例的彩色液态云照片中尝试了短暂性和运动性的概念。 Van Herpen 与 Keever 合作设计了他标志性作品的半透明分层云朵连衣裙。

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The collection consists of eighteen looks with concentration on dissected and voluminous layering, and a warm color palette of ochre, tyrian purple, and indigo pigments. The 'Harmonic' silhouettes are voluminous spheroid dresses that unfold vibrant patterns through translucent gradient-dyed organza that is halfwheel plisse-ed by hand. The 'Symbiotic' volumes are made from gradient- dyed silks that are multi-layered into sculptural shapes by a fine 3D lasercut frame of PETG to create hybrid bird shapes in dimensional color gradations that hover in symbiosis with the body like mythological creatures. 'Shift souls' hide and reveal anamorphic faces that smoke around the body in three dimensional 'wave drawings', multi-layered and gradient-dyed silks are heat-bonded within frames of lasercut mylar, creating surreal spectra anatomies. For the 'Galactic glitch' technique, cloud-printed silk is heat-bonded to mylar and lasercut into the finest lace of thousands of 0.5mm 'harmonica waves', creating a dance of quivering echos that optically distort the body. The "Cosmica' looks are made from vaporous colored clouds by Kim Keever that are printed on translucent organza, to be layered into nebulous multi-dimensional prints, whose unfinished contours bur the body.

该系列包括 18 个造型，专注于解剖和丰富的分层，以及赭石、泰里安紫和靛蓝颜料的暖色调。 “Harmonic” 廓形是宽大的球形连衣裙，通过半透明的渐变染色透明硬纱（手工半轮褶皱）展现出充满活力的图案。 “共生”卷由渐变染色的丝绸制成，通过精细的 PETG 3D 激光切割框架多层成雕塑形状，以创造出立体颜色渐变的混合鸟类形状，像神话中的生物一样与身体共生。 'Shift souls' 隐藏和显露变形的脸，在三维'波浪图'中在身体周围冒烟，多层和渐变染色的丝绸在激光切割聚酯薄膜框架内热粘合，创造出超现实的光谱解剖结构。对于“银河故障”技术，云印花丝绸被热粘合到聚酯薄膜上，并用激光切割成数千条 0.5 毫米“口琴波”的最精细蕾丝，创造出一种颤动回声的舞蹈，在光学上扭曲身体。 “Cosmica” 造型由 Kim Keever 用雾状的彩色云彩制成，印在半透明的透明硬纱上，层层叠叠成模糊的多维印花，其未完成的轮廓覆盖身体。

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'Cellchemy' face-jewelry are 3D printed through high-resolution multi-material printer in collaboration with the Delft University of Technology. One-off pieces were developed through a generative design process based on a 3D face scan, by combining the color information with the 3D shape in grasshopper algorithm, a semi-arbitrary density structure was mapped from the face.

“Cellchemy”面部珠宝是与代尔夫特理工大学合作通过高分辨率多材料打印机进行 3D 打印的。 通过基于 3D 面部扫描的生成设计过程开发一次性作品，通过将颜色信息与蚱蜢算法中的 3D 形状相结合，从面部映射出半任意密度结构。

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For the finale of the show, Iris van Herpen collaborated with contemporary artist Nick Verstand, subdividing the space using walls of materialized laser light, revealing a dreamscape of circulating clouds.

在演出的最后阶段，Iris van Herpen 与当代艺术家 Nick Verstand 合作，使用实体化的激光墙细分空间，揭示了循环云的梦幻景观。