意大利服装品牌Ermanno Scervino（艾尔玛诺·谢尔维诺）2023年秋冬系列 高清图片画廊

“All dressed up or en déshabillé, she was the most charming and beautiful of them all, she possessed charisma, and her voluptuous body was unparalleled.” Reminiscing a conversation with a Cinecittà costume designer still marveling at the beauty, elegance, glamour, and empowered femininity of legendary actress Ava Gardner, Ermanno Scervino developed his fall/winter 2023-2024 wardrobe.

“无论是盛装打扮还是便装打扮，她都是她们中最迷人、最美丽的，她拥有超凡魅力，她那丰满的身材无与伦比。” 回忆起与 Cinecittà 服装设计师的对话，这位服装设计师仍然惊叹于传奇女演员 Ava Gardner 的美丽、优雅、魅力和强大的女性气质，Ermanno Scervino 开发了他的 2023-2024 秋冬服装。

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The collection takes cues from the seismic revolution the Hollywood diva ignited in the perception of the female body. She was liberated, assertive, unabashed, and determined to embrace her femininity with gusto, never afraid to toy with the masculine side of her personality nor to let her sensuality flow. Training his master tailor’s hands and challenging his atelier on sculpting the body in a quest for the perfect silhouette and shape for every body type, the designer embraced Ava Gardner’s iconography with a contemporary flair, adding currency to her wardrobe. Undergarments become the focal point of the collection, rooted in subtle sensuality and intimacy. The pointy bra made famous by Ava Gardner is back in vogue on the Ermanno Scervino catwalk, paraded on Saturday during Milan Fashion Week. The house’s craftsmanship and know-how are out in force, best exemplified by strapless minidresses, done in double wool, lace, and satin. They expose the intricate, soft and comfortable, structured and flattering, inner bra constructions required to exalt and shape the glorious female body.

该系列从这位好莱坞巨星在女性身体观念上引发的革命性变革中汲取灵感。她自由、自信、无所畏惧，决心以极大的热情拥抱自己的女性特质，从不害怕玩弄自己个性中的男性一面，也不害怕让自己的性感随波逐流。这位设计师训练他的裁缝大师的手，并挑战他的工作室来塑造身体，以寻求适合每种体型的完美轮廓和形状，他以现代风格拥抱了艾娃·加德纳的形象，为她的衣橱增添了新意。内衣成为该系列的焦点，植根于微妙的性感和亲密感。艾娃·加德纳让其名声大噪的尖头胸罩在周六米兰时装周的 Ermanno Scervino 时装秀上再次流行起来。该品牌的工艺和专业知识得到了充分体现，最好的例子是用双层羊毛、蕾丝和缎子制成的无肩带迷你裙。它们展现出精致、柔软、舒适、结构化且美观的内衣结构，以凸显和塑造女性美丽的身材。

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Sensuality emerges in the alignment of opposites as in the dichotomies between masculine and feminine, delicacy and strength, as well as in the captivatingly dissonant palette of charcoal grey, ivory white and blush juxtaposed to lime green, ruby red and denim blue. Power shouldered topcoats are layered atop short lacy frocks; cropped and belted buttery leather trenches are paired with girly short shorts in the same material, and hooded oversize parkas cut short and lined in a fuzzy and cocooning weaved wool are thrown over exquisite slipdresses in cinematic dove-grey nuance. The season’s shearling jackets and coats are embroidered with thick woolen threads arrangements, while the signature charming lace cascades over see-through concoctions that are both revealing and immaculate. Loose satin shirts are left unbuttoned worn over fluid sequined pants, the contrast of ruby red and lime green adding an offbeat touch, while velvet suits are overprinted for a color-fading, worn-in effect. Beauty, elegance and glamour are the very essence of Ermanno Scervino’s fashion vocabulary, one embedded with love for women.

性感在对立中显现，比如男性与女性、柔弱与力量之间的二分法，以及炭灰色、象牙白和腮红色与酸橙绿、宝石红和牛仔蓝的迷人不和谐色调。肩部大衣层叠在短款蕾丝连衣裙上；短款和系腰带的奶油色皮革风衣搭配相同材质的少女短裤，连帽超大派克大衣剪裁短小，内衬毛茸茸的茧型编织羊毛，外搭在电影般的鸽灰色调精致吊带裙上。本季的羊毛夹克和大衣绣有厚羊毛线，而标志性迷人蕾丝层叠在透明的面料上，既暴露又完美无瑕。宽松的缎面衬衫没有扣上纽扣，搭配飘逸的亮片长裤，宝石红和青柠绿的对比增添了另类的气息，而天鹅绒套装则印有褪色和磨损的效果。美丽、优雅和魅力是 Ermanno Scervino 时尚词汇的精髓，其中蕴含着对女性的热爱。