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Couture Fall 2019

Imperial Russia – or rather, a dream-like depiction – is at the heart of Zuhair Murad’s Couture 2018-19 collection.

Zuhair Murad 2018-19 时装系列的核心是俄罗斯帝国——或者更确切地说，如梦似幻的描绘。

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The grand balls held by tsars in Saint Petersburg give way to a sense of aristocratic opulence.

圣彼得堡沙皇举行的盛大舞会让位于贵族的富裕感。

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From the Great Ball that once that marked the opening of a season to the decadent wardrobe of Elisabeth of Russia, famous for her 15 000 gowns, to Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina, the historical savoir-faire redefines contemporary elegance.

从曾经标志着一个季节开始的大舞会，到以 15 000 件礼服而闻名的俄罗斯伊丽莎白的颓废衣橱，再到托尔斯泰的安娜卡列尼娜，历史的精湛技艺重新定义了当代的优雅。

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A bustier dress with an ivory white trail in is adorned by organic motifs or coats-of-arms, and illuminated by washed out gold beading. Another model with long sleeves, plunging neckline is embellished with tone-on-tone dusty blue guipure. Brocade is paired with Venetian velour and embroided with glimmering stones outlining arabesques – reminiscent of Fabergé eggs. A bronze velour cape envelops the shoulders; soft tulle softens strict cuts.

一件带有象牙白色拖尾的紧身连衣裙饰有有机图案或徽章，并以褪色的金色珠饰照亮。另一款长袖款式，低领口饰有同色系灰蓝色凸纹。织锦与威尼斯丝绒搭配，并绣有勾勒蔓藤花纹的闪闪发光的石头——让人想起法贝热鸡蛋。青铜丝绒披风包裹着肩膀；柔软的薄纱柔化严格的剪裁。

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This femininity is layered with the period’s military wear. In a country where every professional stratum was codified via nationally approved uniforms, this nod to regulation adds a rigorous, masculine touch to the collection. Boyar-inspired jackets are punctuated royal eagles’ motifs, badges and corded detailing.

这种女性气质与当时的军装相得益彰。在一个每个职业阶层都通过国家批准的制服编纂的国家，这种对法规的认可为该系列增添了严谨、阳刚的气息。以 Boyar 为灵感的夹克饰有皇家老鹰图案、徽章和绳索细节。

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This hybridity is also expressed in a cropped A-line beaded dress in oxblood sequins with a military collar and sleeves; a dress coat in kaki satin duchess elevated with golden silk thread and paired with matching shorts, or a jumpsuit in celadon blue with chiffon sleeves and a floor sweeping cape.

这种混搭也体现在一件带有军用领和袖子的牛血亮片裁切 A 字形串珠连衣裙上；卡其色缎面公爵夫人礼服外套搭配金色丝线，搭配配套短裤，或青瓷蓝色雪纺袖连身裤和扫地斗篷。

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The bridging of the masculine and feminine, of ornamentation and functionality, two usually opposed worlds, reflects today’s modern woman.

阳刚与阴柔、装饰与功能这两个通常对立的世界之间的桥梁，反映了当今的现代女性。