Bridal Fall 2020

Following his ongoing homage to strong women, Zuhair Murad drew this season’s inspiration from the life and unique style of four unparalleled muses. References to fashion editor Diana Vreeland, socialite Gloria Vanderbilt, painters Tamara de Lempicka and Georgia O’Keefe are peppered throughout the collection and run through each piece like a golden thread.

继对坚强女性的持续敬意之后，Zuhair Murad 从四位无与伦比的缪斯女神的生活和独特风格中汲取了本季的灵感。对时尚编辑 Diana Vreeland、社交名媛 Gloria Vanderbilt、画家 Tamara de Lempicka 和 Georgia O'Keefe 的引用贯穿整个系列，并像一条金线一样贯穿每件作品。

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The garments juxtapose an Art Deco structure, rigorous and graphic, to sensuality inherent to the house’s DNA. A streamlined suit or a pared down Princess-line gown are radically reworked in golden tweed. Metallic detailing also appears in appliqués reminiscent of Modernist architecture, enlivening a bustier dress or a sharp blazer. A bold dialogue between textures and cuts appears in the shape of a quilted double-breasted trapeze cape, elevated by a Lavallière collar in delicate lace. The latter is also used to outline geometrical motifs on silk or Georgette crêpe dresses and blouses – accentuating an elongated silhouette reminiscent of Tamara de Lempicka’s slender portraiture style.

这些服装将装饰艺术风格的结构、严谨和图形与品牌 DNA 固有的性感并置。流线型西装或简约的公主系列礼服采用金色花呢进行彻底改造。金属细节也出现在让人联想到现代主义建筑的贴花中，为紧身连衣裙或锋利的西装外套增添活力。绗缝双排扣飞人斗篷的造型呈现纹理和剪裁之间的大胆对话，精致蕾丝的 Lavallière 衣领将其提升。后者还用于勾勒丝绸或乔其纱绉纱连衣裙和衬衫上的几何图案——突出细长的轮廓，让人联想到 Tamara de Lempicka 纤细的肖像画风格。

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On tenebrous organza, organic lace motifs brighten a dress composed of tears of ruffles, or inspired by caftans – which evoke the unparalleled allure, both distinguished and effortlessly feminine, of Gloria Vanderbilt. From graphic shoulderpads to tapestry impressions in embroided crystals or a draped and asymmetrical sheath dress, the collection is built around audacious yet refined contrasts, something also apparent in the color palette. Including lilac and floral impressions as a nod to Georgia O’Keefe’s work, and deep reds alluding to Diana Vreeland’s interiors, the tones, epochs and styles cited are as complex as the woman who will wear them.

在暗淡的欧根纱上，有机蕾丝图案为由荷叶边泪痕组成的连衣裙或以长衫为灵感的连衣裙增添了光彩——这唤起了格洛丽亚·范德比尔特 (Gloria Vanderbilt) 无与伦比的魅力，既尊贵又毫不费力。从图形肩垫到刺绣水晶挂毯印象或垂褶和不对称紧身连衣裙，该系列围绕大胆而精致的对比而打造，在调色板中也很明显。包括丁香和花卉印象作为对 Georgia O’Keefe 作品的致敬，以及暗指 Diana Vreeland 室内设计的深红色，所引用的色调、时代和风格与穿着它们的女性一样复杂。