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品牌简介:

Christian Dior SE (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]), commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French multinational luxury fashion house controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH. Dior holds 42.36% shares and 59.01% of voting rights within LVMH.

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Christian Dior SE（法语：[kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]），俗称 Dior（，是一家法国跨国奢侈品时装公司，由法国商人 Bernard Arnault 控制和主持，他也是 LVMH 的负责人。 Dior在LVMH内部持有42.36%的股份和59.01%的投票权。

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The company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior, who was originally from Normandy. This brand sells only shoes and clothing that can only be bought in Dior stores. Haute couture is under the Christian Dior Couture division. Delphine Arnault has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2023.

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该公司于 1946 年由来自诺曼底的法国时装设计师克里斯蒂安·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 创立。 该品牌只销售只能在 Dior 专卖店购买的鞋子和服装。 高级时装隶属于迪奥高级定制部门。 自 2023 年以来，Delphine Arnault 一直担任 Christian Dior Couture 的首席执行官。

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History(历史)

Founding(创始):

The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946 at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year.Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac. Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand. The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac. Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees. The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a "majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Dior's creativity also negotiated him a good salary

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迪奥之家于 1946 年 12 月 16 日在巴黎蒙田大道 30 号成立。 然而，目前的迪奥公司庆祝“1947”作为开年。迪奥得到了富商马塞尔布萨克的财政支持。 Boussac 最初邀请 Dior 为 Philippe et Gaston 设计，但 Dior 拒绝了，他希望以自己的名字重新开始，而不是让一个老牌重振旗鼓。 新时装屋成为 Boussac 经营的“垂直整合纺织业务”的一部分。 其资本为 600 万法郎，员工人数为 80 人。 这家公司对 Boussac 来说确实是一个虚荣心的项目，并且是“Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. 的主要子公司。然而，Dior 被允许在他的同名品牌中担任当时不寻常的重要角色（法律领导，公司的非控股股权， 和税前利润的三分之一）尽管 Boussac 享有“控制狂”的美誉，但 Dior 的创造力也让他获得了丰厚的薪水。

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On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six mannequins" was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Originally, the two lines were named "Corolle" and "Huit". However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the "New Look" after the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, "It's such a new look!" The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s. When the collection was presented, the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying; "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian!" The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France. Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking. "We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well." The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the "Bar" suit from the first collection. The Bar suit was a contribution from the head of Dior's tailoring atelier, a young Pierre Cardin, who was employed by the house from 1947 to 1949. The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects, as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style.

1947 年 2 月 12 日，克里斯蒂安·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 推出了他的第一个 1947 春夏时装系列。“他的第一个系列的 90 位模特在 6 个人体模特身上”的展示在公司总部蒙田大道 30 号的沙龙中进行。 最初，这两条线分别命名为“Corolle”和“Huit”。 然而，这个新系列被时尚芭莎的主编卡梅尔斯诺惊呼，“这真是一个新造型！”之后，这个新系列被称为“New Look”而载入时尚史册。 New Look 是 20 世纪 40 年代末女性的革命时代。 赠送藏品时，主编也表示赞赏： “这真是一场革命，亲爱的克里斯蒂安！” Christian Dior 的首个系列被认为重振了法国的时装业。 与此同时，New Look 带回了法国高级时装的精神，因为它被认为是迷人和年轻的。 “我们见证了一场时尚革命，也见证了一场展示时尚的革命。” 廓形的特点是小巧的内收腰和长度低于小腿中部的长裙，突出了胸部和臀部，第一个系列的“Bar”套装就是其中的缩影。 Bar 西装是 Dior 裁缝工作室负责人、年轻的 Pierre Cardin 的贡献，他于 1947 年至 1949 年间受雇于 Dior。该系列整体展示了更加刻板的女性化设计，与战时流行的时装形成鲜明对比，包括宽裙 ，紧腰，柔软的肩膀。 Dior 保留了一些男性化的方面，因为它们在 1940 年代初期继续流行，但他也想包含更多女性化的风格。。

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The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II, regained its preeminence.The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK.[citation needed] According to Harold Koda, Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look.Dior's designs from the "New Look" did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior's evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood's Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen's Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011).

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New Look 变得极为流行，其长裙廓形一直影响着其他时装设计师，直至 20 世纪 50 年代，迪奥 (Dior) 赢得了许多来自好莱坞、美国和欧洲贵族的著名客户。 结果，二战后一度跌落时尚界之都的巴黎重新崛起。New Look作为战时紧缩和制服去女性化的一剂清新解药，在西欧受到欢迎。 ，并受到英国玛格丽特公主等时尚女性的拥戴。[需要引文]根据Harold Koda的说法，Dior将新风貌的灵感归功于查尔斯·詹姆斯。迪奥的“新风貌”设计不仅影响了当时的设计师 20 世纪 50 年代，还有 2000 年代的新设计师，包括 Thom Browne、Miuccia Prada 和 Vivienne Westwood。 迪奥当时的晚礼服至今仍被许多设计师参考，在不同的婚礼主题秀场上也曾出现过它们的身影，在细腰以下采用多层面料（Jojo，2011）。 例如 Vivienne Westwood 的 2011 秋冬成衣系列和 Alexander McQueen 的 2011 秋冬成衣系列（Jojo，2011）。

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Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing. Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these corseted designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman's independence. There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, "Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable."Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other designers and fashion well into the 21st century. For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior. Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to origami and other Japanese influences. In 2012 Raf Simons revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner. Simons's work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman's body and liberation of expression. The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in Dior and I, presenting Simons's use of technology and modernist re-interpretations.

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然而，并非所有人都对新外观感到满意。 一些人认为这些材料的数量是浪费，特别是在多年的布料配给之后。 女权主义者尤其感到愤怒，认为这些紧身胸衣的设计具有限制性和倒退性，并且剥夺了女性的独立性。 有几个抗议团体反对这些设计，其中包括由 30,000 名男子组成的破产丈夫联盟，他们反对与此类设计所需的面料数量相关的成本。 设计师同事可可·香奈儿 (Coco Chanel) 评论道：“只有从未与女性亲密接触过的男人才能设计出令人不舒服的东西。”尽管遭到了这些抗议，新风貌仍然具有很大的影响力，在 21 世纪继续影响着其他设计师和时尚界的作品。 。 2007 年，为庆祝 New Look 诞生 60 周年，约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 在迪奥 (Dior) 春夏系列中重新演绎了它。 加利亚诺采用了黄蜂腰和圆肩，并参考折纸和其他日本影响进行了现代化和更新。 2012 年，Raf Simons 重新审视了他为 Dior 推出的首个高级时装系列的 New Look，希望以极简主义但又性感的方式更新其面向 21 世纪的理念。 西蒙斯为迪奥设计的作品保留了奢华的面料和廓形，但鼓励对女性身体的自尊和表达的解放。 这个系列的设计过程仅用了八周的时间，记录在《Dior and I》中，展现了西蒙斯对科技的运用和现代主义的重新诠释。

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Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior. Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior (Christian Dior's sister). Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche. Pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue. The modern Dior corporation also notes that "a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the first of its kind," in 1948. In 1949, the "Diorama" perfume is released and by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million.

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无论 Christian Dior Parfums 成立于 1947 年还是 1948 年，现有参考文献都自相矛盾。Dior 公司将 Christian Dior Parfums 的成立时间列为 1947 年，并推出了第一款香水 Miss Dior。 迪奥 (Dior) 推出广受欢迎的迪奥小姐 (Miss Dior) 香水，彻底改变了香水行业，该香水以凯瑟琳·迪奥 (Catherine Dior)（克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 的妹妹）的名字命名。 Christian Dior Ltd 拥有 25% 的股份，Coty 香水经理拥有 35% 的股份，Boussac 拥有香水业务 40% 的股份，由 Serge Heftler Louiche 领导。 1947年至1950年间，皮尔·卡丹 (Pierre Cardin) 被任命为迪奥 (Dior) 工作室负责人。1948年，克里斯汀·迪奥香水 (Christian Dior Parfums) 纽约分店成立——这可能是成立日期问题的原因。 现代迪奥公司还指出，“一家奢华成衣品牌于 1948 年在纽约第五大道和 57 街的拐角处成立，这是同类品牌中的第一家”。1949 年，“Diorama”香水于 到 1949 年，仅 New Look 系列产品就获得了 1270 万法国法郎的利润。

Expansion, and death of Christian Dior:

克里斯蒂安·迪奥的扩张与死亡:

Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris's fashion exports and 5% of France's total export revenue.

1949 年底，克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 精品店在纽约开业，从法国开始扩张。 到年底，迪奥时装占巴黎时装出口的75%，占法国总出口收入的5%。

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In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop. A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield. The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.

1949 年，来自澳大利亚墨尔本的 Douglas Cox 前往巴黎与 Christian Dior 会面，讨论为澳大利亚市场制作 Dior 作品的可能性。 克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 和道格拉斯·考克斯 (Douglas Cox) 签署了一份合同，由迪奥生产原创设计，由道格拉斯·考克斯在他的弗林德斯巷工作室创作。 年轻的吉尔·沃克 (Jill Walker) 年仅十几岁，是道格拉斯·考克斯 (Douglas Cox) 的众多员工之一，该时装品牌现在几乎每天都成为澳大利亚报纸的头条新闻。 吉尔 (Jill) 与丈夫诺埃尔·凯梅尔菲尔德 (Noel Kemelfield) 一起在墨尔本创立了时装品牌，如 Jinoel 和 Marti。 Dior 和 Douglas Cox 之间的协议确实将澳大利亚制衣业推向了全球舞台，但最终事实证明，60 名 Dior 模特对于保守的澳大利亚品味来说过于前卫。 Douglas Cox 无法在 1949 年单季之后续签合同，这使得这些 Dior-Cox 时装作品成为澳大利亚时装界最稀有的收藏品之一。

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In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of "Christian Dior" visibly on a variety of luxury goods. It was placed first on neckties and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves. Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue "for decades to come", which all couture houses followed.

1950 年，迪奥有限公司 (Dior Ltd) 总经理雅克·鲁埃 (Jacques Rouët) 设计了一项授权计划，将如今广为人知的“Christian Dior”名称显眼地印在各种奢侈品上。 它首先被用在领带上，很快就被应用到袜子、毛皮、帽子、手套、手提包、珠宝、内衣和围巾上。 法国时装协会的成员谴责这是有辱高级时装形象的行为。 尽管如此，授权成为一项有利可图的举措，并开始成为一种持续“未来几十年”的趋势，所有高级时装屋都效仿了这一趋势。

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Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich's dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright. In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier (I am a Couturier) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company's strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time. Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952. An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models. Los Gobelinos in Santiago, Chile, made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture. The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953. As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting. This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

同样是在 1950 年，克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 担任阿尔弗雷德·希区柯克 (Alfred Hitchcock) 电影《怯场》中玛琳·黛德丽 (Marlene Dietrich) 礼服的独家设计师。 1951年，迪奥通过出版商Editions du Conquistador出版了他的第一本书《Je Suis Couturier》（我是一名时装设计师）。 尽管该公司在欧洲拥有强大的追随者，但此时其一半以上的收入来自美国。 Christian Dior Models Limited 于 1952 年在伦敦成立。悉尼品牌 House of Youth 与 Christian Dior 纽约模特签订了协议。 智利圣地亚哥的 Los Gobelinos 与 Dior 就 Christian Dior 巴黎高级定制时装达成协议。 第一个 Dior 鞋履系列于 1953 年在 Roger Vivier 的帮助下推出。 到 1953 年底，该公司已在墨西哥、古巴、加拿大和意大利建立了稳固的分支机构。随着 Dior 商品越来越受欢迎，假货也越来越多。 这种非法生意得到了买不起奢侈品的妇女的支持。

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By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire. The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street. In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough, a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957. However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look. Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier in 1955. The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955. 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company's 10th anniversary in 1956. Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut.

到 20 世纪 50 年代中期，迪奥 (Dior) 经营着一个备受尊敬的时尚帝国。 第一家 Dior 精品店于 1954 年在 9 Counduit Street 成立。 1954 年，为纪念玛格丽特公主和马尔伯勒公爵夫人，迪奥时装秀也在布莱尼姆宫举办。 1954 年至 1957 年间，克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 推出了更为成功的时装系列。然而，没有一个能像 New Look 那样产生如此深远的影响。 1955 年，迪奥 (Dior) 在蒙田大道 (Avenue Montaigne) 和弗朗索瓦一世街 (Rue François Ier) 的拐角处开设了 Grande Boutique 精品店。第一支迪奥口红也于 1955 年推出。到 1956 年公司成立 10 周年时，已售出 100,000 件服装。女演员艾娃·加德纳 (Ava Gardner) 拥有 14 件连衣裙 1956 年，Christian Dior 为 Mark Robson 的电影《小小屋》为她创作了这件作品。

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Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957. The captivating impact of Dior's creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history's greatest fashion figures. Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that "by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury."

Christian Dior 出现在 1957 年 3 月 4 日《时代》周刊的封面上。这位设计师不久后于 1957 年 10 月 24 日因第三次心脏病去世。Dior 创意时尚天才的迷人影响力使他被誉为历史上最伟大的时尚人物之一。 《当代时尚》的凯文·阿尔蒙德 (Kevin Almond) 写道，“到迪奥去世时，他的名字已成为品味和奢华的代名词。”