品牌简介:

Pierre Balmain S.A. trading as Balmain, is a French luxury fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945. It operates 16 monobrand stores, including locations in New York City, London, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami, and in Milan's Via Montenapoleone.

Pierre Balmain S.A.作为Balmain进行交易，是一家法国豪华时装店，由Pierre Balmain于1945年创建。它经营16家单品牌店，包括纽约市、伦敦、洛杉矶、拉斯维加斯、迈阿密和米兰的Via Montenapoleone。

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In 2016, Mayhoola Investments acquired Balmain for a figure reportedly close to €500 million ($548 million).Balmain was 70 percent controlled by heirs of Alain Hivelin. The company does not regularly release financial information, but Les Echos estimated its revenue in 2015 at €120 million (about $136 million), growing from an estimated €30 million (about $34 million) in 2012.Balmain expected to reach a revenue of €150 million in 2017, 90% of which is generated by the wholesale channel, and is also putting more effort into direct retail.

2016年，Mayhoola Investments以接近5亿欧元（5.48亿美元）的价格收购了Balmain。Balmain70%由Alain Hivelin的继承人控制。该公司不定期发布财务信息，但Les Echos估计其2015年的收入为1.2亿欧元（约1.36亿美元），比2012年的估计收入3000万欧元（约3400万美元）有所增长。[3][4]Balmain预计2017年的收入将达到1.5亿欧元，其中90%来自批发渠道，并将更多精力投入直接零售。

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Balmain was born in 1914 in France. His father owned a drapery business and his mother and sister owned a fashion boutique where he often worked after his father's death in 1921. He attended the École des Beaux-Arts in 1933–1934, with intent to study architecture but instead ended up spending the majority of his time designing dresses. After working for atelier Robert Piquet as a freelance artist and spending time with Edward Molyneux, he left school to work for Molyneux. In the late 1930s, he served in the French air force and the army pioneer corps. After peace was declared, he worked at Lucien Lelong and opened his own fashion house under his name at 44, rue François 1er in Paris. He released his first collection in October 1945 and his first fragrance, Jolie Madame in 1949.

巴尔曼1914年出生于法国。1921年父亲去世后，他的父亲拥有一家服装店，他的母亲和姐姐拥有一家时装精品店，他经常在那里工作。1933-1934年，他参加了巴黎美术学院（École des Beaux Arts），意在学习建筑，但最终花了大部分时间设计服装。在为工作室罗伯特·皮奎特（Robert Piquet）担任自由艺术家并与爱德华·莫利诺（Edward Molyneux）共度时光后，他离开学校为莫利诺工作。1930年代末，他在法国空军和陆军先锋军团服役。和平宣告后，他在卢西安·勒隆工作，并在巴黎弗朗索瓦街1号44号以他的名字开设了自己的时装店。他于1945年10月发布了第一个系列，并于1949年发布了第一款香水《朱莉夫人》。

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In the period following World War II, Pierre Balmain was "a king of French fashion" and outfitted stars including Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot, the Nicaraguan first lady Hope Portocarrero,and Queen Sirikit of Thailand. Marlene Dietrich wore Balmain clothes that she selected in "No Highway in the Sky" (1951).

第二次世界大战后，皮埃尔·巴尔曼是“法国时尚之王”，服装明星包括艾娃·加德纳（Ava Gardner）和布丽吉特·巴多（Brigitte Bardot）、尼加拉瓜第一夫人霍普·波托卡雷罗（Hope Portcarrero）和泰国王后诗丽吉特（Sirikit）。玛琳·迪特里希穿着她在《天空中没有高速公路》（1951年）中挑选的巴尔曼服装。

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After Balmain's death in 1982, the house was led by Erik Mortensen, described by Vogue as "Pierre Balmain's right hand".Mortensen had joined the house to work as Balmain's assistant in 1951. After succeeding Balmain, Eric Mortensen worked to maintain the brand aesthetic in the ever-living world of couture while still maintaining the progressive spirit of creativity in the fashion industry. The Balmain house recruits Peggy Huynh Kinh in 1982 to provide artistic direction for women's ready-to-wear and women's and home accessories license studios.Eric Mortensen won two Golden Thimble awards for his haute couture collections, one for the Autumn/Winter 83/84 and one for the Autumn/Winter 87/88. He left the house in 1990. After his departure, designer Hervé Pierre took over until 1992 working as director of ready-to-wear and haute couture.

1982年巴尔曼去世后，这所房子由埃里克·莫滕森（Erik Mortensen）领导，《Vogue》称其为“皮埃尔·巴尔曼的右手”。莫滕森于1951年加入该公司，担任巴尔曼的助理。在接替巴尔曼之后，埃里克·莫滕森致力于在时尚界保持品牌美学，同时保持不断进步的创意精神。Balmain house于1982年招募了Peggy Huynh Kinh，为女性成衣和女性及家庭配饰许可工作室提供艺术指导。埃里克·莫滕森（Eric Mortensen）凭借其高级时装系列获得了两项金顶奖，一项是83/84秋冬系列，另一项是87/88秋冬系列。他于1990年离开了这家公司。在他离开后，设计师埃尔维·皮埃尔（HervéPierre）接任到1992年，担任成衣和高级时装总监。

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Possibly the most influential designer to take over at Balmain was Oscar de la Renta, who led the house between 1993 and 2002.Already a fashion veteran before joining Balmain, De la Renta brought a famous face to the brand Balmain. He lived in New York City most of his life, although he was born in the Dominican Republic and became a naturalized United States citizen in 1971. He fit into the Balmain design aesthetic, with an eye for detail and classic silhouettes. He, like Balmain, preferred modest and simple design rather than extremely ornamental and flashy styles. Couture had been suffering at the time since it was an extremely impractical business, so Oscar joined the brand in order to challenge himself and to help it through the beginning of the decline of couture.

接手巴尔曼的最有影响力的设计师可能是奥斯卡·德·拉·伦塔（Oscar de la Renta），他在1993年至2002年间领导了这家公司。在加入巴尔曼之前，德拉·伦塔已经是一名时尚老手，他为巴尔曼品牌带来了一张著名的面孔。尽管他出生于多米尼加共和国，并于1971年加入美国国籍，但他一生大部分时间都生活在纽约市。他符合巴尔曼的设计美学，注重细节和经典轮廓。和巴尔曼一样，他更喜欢谦逊简约的设计，而不是极具装饰性和华而不实的风格。因为时装是一项极其不切实际的生意，所以奥斯卡加入这个品牌是为了挑战自己，帮助它度过时装衰落的初期。

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After Oscar de la Renta's departure Christophe Decarnin joined the house in 2005. Contrary to all the designers before him, Decarnin insisted on bringing the brand into the 21st century. He favored expensive prices and flashy pieces that sharply contrasted with the label's reputation for its classic and luxurious designs. He was considered a "star designer", and the brand became more about his star status than about its clothes.In April 2011, Balmain announced that Decarnin was to be replaced by Olivier Rousteing.

奥斯卡·德·拉·伦塔离开后，克里斯托夫·迪卡宁于2005年加入了该公司。与他之前的所有设计师相反，迪卡宁坚持将品牌带入21世纪。他喜欢昂贵的价格和华而不实的单品，这与该品牌经典奢华的设计形成了鲜明对比。他被认为是“明星设计师”，这个品牌更关注他的明星地位，而不是服装。2011年4月，巴尔曼宣布迪卡宁将由奥利维尔·鲁斯廷取代。

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Rousteing had joined the company in 2009, after attending a prestigious French fashion school and working under Roberto Cavalli.While he liked Decarnin's aesthetic, he wanted to orient the label towards the finer aspects of French couture. At the time of his appointment, Rousteing was a relatively unknown designer, and has brought a fresh take on the brand's aesthetic that remains to this day. He was credited with adding an Asian influence to the clothing, as Asia comprises a huge part of the brand's buyers.

Rousteing于2009年加入该公司，之前他就读于一所著名的法国时装学校，并在Roberto Cavalli手下工作。虽然他喜欢Decarnin的美学，但他希望将品牌定位于法国时装的更精细方面。在任命之时，Rousteing是一位相对默默无闻的设计师，他为品牌的美学带来了一种全新的面貌，至今仍在延续。他被认为为服装增添了亚洲影响力，因为该品牌的买家中有很大一部分来自亚洲。